:(Ever since I bought a 94 Berlina several years ago, the transmission has played up.
I wasted over $2500 on a new transmission and a whole lot of other crap including three new throttle position switches. The mechanic at the time never really found the problem and the dyno thingy never reported an error message from the car computer.
Not knowing much about cars gave my mechanic plenty of opportunity to rip me off!
The problem is with the auto shifting up gears. In 1st gear, it rev's off it's head until it clunks into 2nd at 40kph. The same happens at 80kph into 3rd and at 110kph into 4th. This pattern is always the same but the wierd thing is that every now and then the thing works perfectly between turning the car on and off, which makes the whole problem seem to be electrical.
I've asked heaps of people about the problem and none can help. I hate the idea of going to a mechanic again with no idea!!!
By the way my electrics have started going too... first my taco stopped working then the cruise control then the brake lights and now my indicators are out. I've checked the fuses and they are all fine!!!

I cant tell you much about the car specs. As far as I know it's mostly stock standard with LPG and a power chipset of some sort. The rest of the car is fine.

WHAT THE **** IS GOING ON!!!!!

PLEASE HELP!!!!

Sounds like you need a Auto-Electrician.
I'm certainly no expert on auto transmissions.
The way you describe the fault it's as if the trans selector solenoids are lazy. The confusing thing is that it is intermittant, obviously. Perhaps even a brain issue - ECU. That performance mod chip is a slight concern as it may very well change your shift patterns.
When in doubt we always send the car to a trans specialist.
Auto trans specialists under go an entire apprenticeship on the subject.
They know their stuff.
If your fuses are ok then maybe your indicator flasher cam/relay is shot. Maybe even the stalk.
Your brake lights not working could be related to a pedal switch failure.
What is your cruise doing? Often the indicator stalks can fail and therefore the button to engage the cruise fails...
Tacho picks up a neg. ignition pulse from the DFI module. The gauge would also require a power supply.
There is another possibility of a gauge mechanical failure.
Hope some of this helps you, mate.

Thanks Kordorn!

This sounds like a good starting point and something to give the auto elect.
My old dodgy mechanic never mentioned any of these possibilities, instead he replaced
the TPS and transmission as I mentioned and did something to the stepper motor.
The 'cruise' light on the dash turns on when pressing the button on the end of the indicator lever, but cruise control doesnt engage when using the button beside it.
A mate can help me with the indicator cam/relay and stalk for starters.

I know its a long shot but would you be able to estimate what I might be charged to diagnose and fix the problems you mentioned at an auto electrician?
Considering these costs and the possibility of endless problems, should I start looking for a new car?
(or buy a bloody horse!!!?)

Thanks again!

If the cruise is enabling but not engagig the next obvious fault would be the brake/cruise switch.
The brake switch disables cruise when driving. If the switch is faulting, your cruise will not engage.
Change this one yourself....easy and cheap. test first!
You may even kill 2 birds with one stone. (referring the brakelight issue).
I would definately try for a quote first when it comes to your trans issue. If it were just an internal trans problem, the trans pro will pick it on a simple road test and quote accordingly.
If the touble is electircal I honestly don't know what your looking at, cost wise. Something like $60 an hour. Parts second hand would be a good option, if possible.

Thanks again!

I will do some shopping around and write back with some results as soon as possible.

Hey with the auto if the auto sparks find it ok I have seen alot of sticking shift solends over the time due to dirt from a fault aotu trans. Some doing what you say and other all the time. The valve body way also be worn enought for the oil to flow pass when hot. What is the shift like when cold and when hot as this would help too.

Thanks for the info nutterout.

There's no difference in shifting when the car is hot or cold. As soon as the car starts, I know if it's going to play up as the motor idles at higher revs. Every now and then I start the car and it idle's low and I know that I'm going to have a good run. But it's all random! Once, it was working fine and then stuffed up along the way while driving.

Are these solenoids something I can look at myself and try to clean?

No you can't clean only replace. They can be tested in the trans. As kordon said and what you said just now sound like a ecu fault to me a auto spark is a good place to start as a break out box will be needed to item on there own with the ecu.

I have had the same problem i have brand new reco gear box. Changed the TPS sensors twice thinking that was the problem. the second time i changed it hammered.

AFter 1 hour wen the car was hot the car was missing and cut out. i put new coil pack module on. still would not start. then noticed broken earth strap down near AC. Fixed that problem. started straight away. hammered like new.

drove car to goulburn and back kick back at 180km sick box. hammers. 200km max maybe. came home. the next day the car was cold i drove car for half hour on highway it started missing had to leave car on side of road. came back next day and rough to start. revved it got home ok. small flutter on take off. Over the last two days drove car on short trips the car got warm and is still missing. short trips the car is fine. longer trips it starts missing. doing my head in.

i have changed Torque convertor lock up valve in box (TCC). 6 times back to transmission specialist who told me thats not the problem. so i changed crank angle sensor. it wasnt that. changed the TPS for the 2nd time it run better. hammered. I think the auto specialist put the wrong one in initially. it was 25% out on scanner at another auto shop. Now that i have changed it, its ok but when car gets hot it still cuts out as i have mentioned earlier. i have changed plugs, leads. i am a mechanic. its not head gaskets or injectors - they've been checked. it has to be an electrical miss. it seems to miss on one cylinder at idle. at 60-90km it flutters. when the problem is at full strength it misses badly then cuts out. changed module also.

the car has an intermittant problem.

has anyone got any ideas?? -- scanner??

Sounds like a good one mate.
Usually leads on this model as you may well know.
You've done plugs, leads, DFI module, coil packs.
It wouldn't be the fuel pump as you stated it appears to miss on one cylinder only?
Good idea to check fuel pressure anyway, as the vehicle faults.
Injectors can block up form dirt in the tank but you've stated they've been checked.
A mechanical valve problem would likely be consistant unless a sticking valve is envolved....a comp. test when the vehicle is faulting would rule this one out.
When you say you've changed the module near the end of your post are you referring to the ECU? It is possible the ECU is playing up but bare in mind your engine does not have a cam sensor and therefore doesn't inject sequentially. The ECU controls the injectors in banks of 3.
How long ago did you fit your plug leads?
If it has been a while perhaps it would be wise to carefully inspect the inside of the lead boots for arching marks. The plugs will show signs of this too.
Get back to me.

Hi again,

It's me with the mystery VR problems.
I've finally taken my car to an auto elect. The brakes and indicators both need new
switches and the cruise control will probably be the same.
The mechanic hasn't driven the car yet but thinks the transmission problem could be related
to the alternator which is still un-touched after 230,000kms and needs an over-haul.
He's saying that the worn components can fail to send enough power around the car including
the ECU. which can lead to issues.

Does this sound possible?

The VR is still at the mechanics and I'm looking at about $380 total.
I'm still worried about getting stuffed around again. If this doesnt work I am definately
getting rid of the bloody thing!!!

Hopefully those switches fix a few 'bugs' you have.
The alternator scenario sounds a little weak to me, thou.
Okay it may have a poor charging rate but I believe it's a long stretch to say what he has and expect you to pay for his 'guesses'.
The next place, before the car yard, is an auto trans specialist for a free quote...

G'day,
I lost the Tacho, speedo, odometer and cruise control in my wifes 95 VR. Cruise was doing same thing as you stated. Light would come on but wouldn't activate. I changed the transducer in the transmission with no result.
I then replaced the whole instrument cluster and now everything works perfectly.
Don't know if this helps but good luck.
Crash.
P.S. If you do change the instrument cluster it's very easy to wind back the kilometers to match your old speedo. Just remove the front clear plastic cover and using a small screwdriver carefully turn the numbers forwards. For example 365,000 ks to 205,000 wind the 6 right around to 0 and the 3 right around to 2). I was worried about damage but no problems have occurred, have since done over 3000 ks and it works perfect.)

G'day again.

Well I replaced the alternator (the brushes were totally worn) and the old VR worked perfect for several months!
I thought it was finally all over... Yeah right!
The transmission started playing up again and finally the front seal blew out.

I've given up and practically given it away to a mate who will use it as a project car.

Thanks for all the help and ideas.

PS: My cheap little '92 corolla works perfectly!!!

Good to hear back mate. Cheers.

Hello out there, has anyone else had the problem of leaking, no, dumping of transmission or steering fluids? My VR Commodore has had a transmission problem for a year now, changed the gear box and fixed everything - supposedly - still dumping. I had the hoses from the steering fluid tank changed, oil hoses just about all the hoses replaced. Filled all reservoirs, fine. Drive the car for a few days and some days several hundred kilometres, then suddenly dump - fluid flowing out from under the car, check steering fluid empty, check others - fine. Fill and away we go again for another week sometimes 2 then another dump, this time transmission fluid. I would have thought that gearboxes would have been checked before they are installed. Anyone else care to comment? My next task is to yet again check all seals and hoses/whatever on the transmission/gearbox - automatic. If that doesn't fix the problem again, its the scrap heap I'm afraid.

Not sure about VR mate but VS had a problem with the trans breather hose leaking fluid in the wrong places. They re routed the hose in the end to avoid potential fire hazard.

Off the point tho. Sounds like your trans from what I have read. I had a mates VQ trans get hot from towing and at some point it blew the fluid out the transmission breather hose. The more heat the more pressure. Over filling the unit will cause this as well. Remember to check the trans fluid level when the engine is running and in park or neutral. If you're concerned have a trans specialist advise you...could be a problem.?!?

I gather the fluid is red? P/steer systems love to leak but not gush/dump. Steering racks boots fill up with fluid but usually only drip. Pumps leak but again just make a mess over time.