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> Vr erratic engine, Running rough before cutting out?
Holdensrule
post Aug 29 2008, 12:14 PM
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blink.gif HELP! HELP! HELP!
My VR Commodore 1994 model has developed a problem which I thought was the crank angle sensor unit as it starts fine then after about 15 to 20 mins driving begins to run erratic before cutting out.

Until today I have been squirting cold water on the sender unit to get it to run/ idler and drive away as if nothing happened.

However this morning 5 minutes later. same problem again, and after getting it going again it played up when I reached a set of lights, as i slowed down, engine began to run erratic and cut out,

On each occassion it will start without water but coughs and splutters and backfires etc. and stops and starts until it just seems to decide to run.

After two or three attempts at this it then performed normally for an hours driving.

Two days in a row the same.
As the Crank Angle sender is $70 I don't want to change it if it isn't the problem, as funds are extremely tight.

Any other possible causes from my description, or anyone else had a similar problem , your advice and help would be most appreciated???

HELP! HELP! HELP! help.gif

This problem is driving( Pardon the pun) me nuts.
With a cold engine it starts fine and runs for approximately 10ks before starting to "Starve" for fuel (?) and cut out. Pour water over the front of the engine and provided it is enough water it starts fine and away we go, maybe for another 10k or yesterday, 70 k to town without a hiccup.

This morning, cold start o.k. drove to shops 5 k away. fine . shopped for 15mins, returned to the car and whilst it fires to start, cuts out, won't run or runs erratic until it gets the water treatment.

I am at a loss as to what it is that needs to be replaced and no one seems able to diagnose the problem????

Anyone have any ideas???
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Kordorn
post Nov 5 2009, 06:31 PM
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Well that's an odl get out of trouble trick. Did a mechanic teach you that one?
I sounds like the sensor to me. If you had access to a scan tool it would have set a CAS DTC by now.
We used to have a tool we pulgged into the loom to the sensor. It had LED's of a different colour for each circuit. From memory one light pulsed for each TDC and one pulsed constantly for crank motion/position. We used it to confirm the sensor as the fault as the engine stalled.
Puller is required to remove the balancer.
I believe this model has a dowel to locate the sensor correctly.


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